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How New Materials Affect the Environment

5/27/2021

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Every creature on earth, from small Pygmy Puffs to mighty Erumpents, are impacted by our everyday decisions. 

Our actions matter and can make a world of difference for our planet and its inhabitants. 

To honor these animals and the natural world around us, Phase 3 of our “Wizards For Environmental Protection” campaign was “The Burrow Challenge!”

On our social media accounts, we focused on how new materials affect the environment. We shared a Hogwarts Library-worth of information about fast fashion, secondhand shopping, mending and repurposing clothes, and more.

Here’s a recap of what we covered during this exciting week-long period and some bonus content we didn’t include in our social posts! ​
1. How Fast Fashion Affects The Environment

One of the goals of our "Wizards for Environmental Protection" campaign is to encourage you to become a mindful consumer.
 
We’ve seen that while shopping for food, we need to ask ourselves how our purchases are impacting the environment. Well, that applies to other items we often consume - particularly, clothes. 
 
The documentary The True Cost states that globally, we now consume about 80 billion new pieces of clothing every year. This is 400% more than what we consumed two decades ago.
 
Endless discounts and sales lure us into buying more. We focus on how much money we save instead of thinking about the cost it has on the environment. 
 
The fashion industry is one of the major contributors of water and plastic pollution. UNECE estimates that it accounts for roughly 10% of global carbon emissions and 20% of global wastewater. 
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This is not only due to the amount of clothes we produce, but how we produce them. For instance, cotton, which, according to WWF, is used in approximately half of all textiles, is a water intensive crop that is grown with agrochemicals - mainly pesticides and fertilizers. 

​The lifespan of our clothes is also shorter than before. You might have heard of how planned obsolescence for electronic devices encourages us to keep buying newer models. Well, the same principle applies in the clothing industry. By selecting poorer fabrics that will easily break down, fashion brands make sure that we will constantly be in need of new clothes.

 
This system works for them because they keep releasing new collections every year. That’s what we call fast fashion. 
 
Finally, Global Fashion Agenda indicates that about 92 million tons of waste are generated by the global textiles and clothing industry. What is even more alarming is that by 2030, this number could increase by at least 50%.

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So what can we do to reduce our fashion footprint?
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  • Learn how to mend and repurpose our clothes
  • Swap clothes with families and friends 
  • Rent or shop for second-hand clothes
  • Avoid buying new items from fast fashion brands
  • Can’t find what you need second hand? Opt for ethical & sustainable clothing

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2. Shopping Secondhand

"I look like my great-aunt Tessie! I smell like my great-aunt Tessie!"

Hand-me-downs are not always glamorous, but they can be if you know where to look!

In our modern age of fast fashion and changing trends, we replace and buy clothes without a second thought. Fears creep in: "Have they seen me in this before? Is this still trendy?"

But the truth is that there are so many ways to get new, fun, fresh items of clothing without Apparating to your favorite stores and spending all your hard-earned Galleons.

Have you been down to Gringotts one too many times for a withdrawal? Always rushing straight to Diagon Alley for the latest everything?

Next time you're down there, walk a little further and discover their wide selection of thrift shops. You'll find second-hand robes, Yule Ball attire, and a whole range of accessories, meaning you'll be saving money and not making that third trip back to your vault.
If thrift shops aren't an option because you've lost your Apparition licence (or you're stuck at home in the midst of a global travel ban), there's no need to fear.

We magical-folk are lucky enough to have Muggle technology for such things. Ever browsed for a new sweater on Facebook Marketplace? What about Depop? Carousell? The Clothing Exchange?

"What if I only plan on using my ball gown once? Isn't it a waste to spend money and resources buying something for one event?" A very good question!

Luckily, there are now rental options. Many people on Instagram and other sites are lending, swapping, and selling items for a small price or bond. One such account is @byrotationofficial, an eco-friendly "Social Fashion Rental App" where you can rent and lend your wardrobe to the community and borrow items that strike your fancy.

Not only does secondhand shopping save money, it also helps preserve our earth by reducing our consumption of more resources, lessening the load on landfills, and reducing the demand for fast fashion (which is not only wasteful, but often employs slave labor and sweatshops).

So before heading straight to your favorite fast fashion stores, check your local thrift shop, hop on a secondhand clothing site, or consider rental items. It'll save you money and space in your wardrobe for your next purchase!
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Happy (thrift) shopping!

3. Repurposing Clothes

"I have nothing to wear!" is a common complaint amongst people on the brink of a meltdown as they get ready to leave the house.

But unless it's Nargles that have taken your clothes, we’re sure you can figure something out. That dress you've worn a hundred times - What was that? It's winter time and too cold for it?

By using Muggle technology, we've found there are two strangely magical places to turn to for outfit repurposing inspiration. These are (but are not limited to): YouTube and Pinterest.

By searching, "how to style (item of clothing)," you will quickly gather lots of new ways to wear particular items that you may have never thought of.
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If you're particularly crafty, you can even learn how to sew or use simple modifications on items you're sick of wearing but don't want to throw away. If this sounds like your thing, simply search for "thrift flip" on YouTube, where you will see lots of creative minds working to make old favorites fresh and new.
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Here are some ideas for repurposing your clothes:
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  • Layer a turtleneck under your slip dress and pair it with some boots
  • Put a jumper over a dress and wear it as a skirt
  • Layer shorts over tights for extra warmth
  • Simply layer up t-shirts, button ups, and sweaters you already own
  • Cut pants and turn them into shorts.
  • Turn shirts or skirts into a unique quilt or bag.
  • Cut old shirts into rags to use for cleaning.

...there are endless possibilities!
 
These tips and tricks will save you time, money, wardrobe space, and the planet through saving resources and saying no to fast fashion!
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4. Mending Clothes

According to the documentary, The True Cost, clothes purchased from fast fashion brands are worn an average of 5 times.

Even with proper care, garments, especially those made with cheap fabric, are bound to get tears and holes. But instead of throwing them away, we can mend them and keep wearing them!

When it comes to mending clothes, Mrs. Weasley is the authority! Even if you don't possess the skills to knit multiple scarves and jumpers every winter, with practice, you can learn how to do simple repairs.  

If you’re not the best at household magic, you can learn how to sew by checking out the online repairing tutorials from Repair What You Wear.

What are some simple fixes we can do?
  • Sew buttons
  • Mend tears and holes
  • Adjust hems
  • Repair seams​
If you'd rather leave that to expert hands, check out services like Sojo, a UK clothing alterations & repairs app.

Clothes that are beyond repair will work great as rags or as bedding for your animal companions. And don’t forget, next time you’re looking to buy new clothes, choose clothes that are built to last.

By showing our clothes a little love, we can prolong their lifespans. So let’s try to:
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  • Wash our clothes less and at a low temperature
  • Avoid the dryer and opt for air drying
  • Pay attention to the instructions on care labels
  • Store our clothes properly, away from sunlight and humidity
  • Make sure our hangers do not distort the shape of our garments

5. Secondhand Electronics

Harry has shown Arthur Weasley some fascinating pieces of equipment! The one he seems to recall most fondly is the “fellytone,” of course! It makes sounds, right from its electronic insides. No magic needed. Fascinating indeed!

This wonderful (and boggling) technology is easiest to find at thrift shops. According to the non-wizarding news, buying new technology means supporting forced labor and throwing away easily repairable items.

Additionally, failing to recycle old parts results in stress on the environment. 

According to Treehugger, recycling just one mobile fellytone saves enough energy to power a laptop for a whole 44 hours.

Additionally, a single computer takes 1.5 tons of water to create, along with 530 pounds of fossil fuels.

Luckily, places like Hubbub repurpose donated mobiles and give them to children and adults in need. This way, everyone can enjoy this non-wizarding sort of magic!

Be a force for good for technology enthusiasts like Arthur Weasley and hand in your old equipment. Someone is bound to love it as much as him!
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6. Secondhand Books

"When in doubt, go to the library.” No one came up with a better motto for Hermione than Ron!

Libraries are magical places filled with amazing resources. Whether you want to know more about magical remedies, fascinating creatures, or how to translate runes, there's a book for you!

One advantage of getting a book from the library is that it's better for the planet! You end up sharing the environmental cost of each book you borrow with others.

We’re not asking you to stop buying books. Hermione would never forgive us for that! Libraries are great, but if you'd like to do some extensive reading and you’d rather have your own copy, buying secondhand is a great option!

You can continue your reading frenzy while shopping at the used book section of your favorite bookstore, like the iconic Flourish and Blotts in Diagon Alley. Or you can have a look at online marketplaces.
Check out websites such as Awesome Books UK, Thrift Books, and Better World Books, which all sell used books worldwide.

Shopping for secondhand books will also help you keep the cost down, especially if you have seven children to put through wizarding school and the spellbook list keeps changing every year!

For us non-magical folk interested in animal rights, Hermione recommends brushing up on your Magizoology knowledge with a copy of Newt Scamander’s “Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them” or trying to veganize some recipes from Mrs. Weasley’s favorite cookbooks, “One Minute Feasts – It's Magic!” or “Enchantment in Baking.” Whatever you choose, give some love to a used copy.

And remember that like all items you buy and no longer need, books can be shared and gifted to family and friends. That ought to clear some space in your bookshelves for your next secondhand book shopping spree!

7. How Fast Fashion Affects Workers
 
When we last talked about environmental racism, we focused on how animal products used as food impacts marginalized communities.

Unfortunately, it doesn't stop there. Animal and non-animal products used in clothing also affect garment workers, who are primarily women of color.
Workers in leather tanneries are exposed to harmful chemicals, which can cause respiratory illnesses and life-threatening diseases such as lung and nasal cancers. Workers involved in the dyeing process of our clothes suffer from similar ailments, too. Extreme heat and noise in garment factories are very common, which can cause workers to faint.

The infrastructures themselves are hazardous, as buildings threaten to collapse. Case in point: in 2013, a disaster in the eight-story building, Rana Plaza, which killed 1134 workers.

The garment and sportswear industries employ 35 million people who have no job security and poor wages. According to Clean Clothes Campaign, a garment worker only receives 0.6% of the total cost of a piece of clothing, while retail (which includes staff, rent, store profit, and VAT) amasses 59%.
These awful practices go on because of unclear supply chains and lack of transparency from fashion brands. As customers, we are unaware of who made our clothes and in what conditions because fashion brands do not disclose their supply factories.
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On the other hand, workers often don’t know which brand they are making clothes for. Without this crucial information, it is much harder for both parties to contact the companies in charge and hold them accountable for workplace violations.

What can we do to support garment workers?
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  • Ask ourselves #WhoMadeMyClothes?
  • Learn how you can take action with Labour Behind the Label
  • Demand fashion brands #GoTransparent by signing the Transparency Pledge with Human Rights Watch
  • Campaign for garment workers' rights by signing Fashion Revolution’s manifesto
  • Check out Venetia La Manna’s guide, “Intro To Ethical Fashion”

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8. Gentrification of Thrifting

We’ve learned how shopping second hand is not only good for the planet, but also good for our wallets.

This might have given you the idea to declutter your home by donating or selling many items you no longer use, be it clothes, books, or furniture.

With the zero-waste and minimalist movements becoming more mainstream, it can be tempting to remove unwanted objects from our home in order to obtain the simplistic aesthetic that has taken over social media.

However, we need to acknowledge that while donating unwanted belongings might seem like a good action and make us feel better about ourselves, it is not always the ideal solution. 

That might sound confusing, but hear us out.
You ought to know that not all thrift stores are non-profit organizations. In fact, many are indeed looking to make a profit, and with thrifting becoming more and more of a trend, many have raised their prices. In that case, it might be best to give what you no longer need to somebody in your entourage, organize a backyard sale, or sell to a private buyer on an online marketplace.

Charities and thrift shops receive endless donations, many of which won’t be of any use. According to the non-profit organisation, Fashion Revolution, only 10% of the clothes given to thrift shops are resold. Unwanted secondhand clothes end up being shipped overseas, with Africa receiving 70% of all clothes donated in Europe.

Don’t donate old clothes that are ripped, such as ripped t-shirts or stained trousers, as they are unlikely to be resold. When donating something, you should ask yourself: would I buy this item? And before being donated, your belongings should be thoroughly cleaned. 

If you’re considering donating appliances, keep in mind that they should be in working condition, as most charities do not have the personnel nor the tools needed to fix them. In this case, recycling your electronics is the best solution. Depending on where you live, some local councils even offer free collection of small items. 

We need to put an end to overconsumption. Selling and donating items we no longer want shouldn’t be a monthly habit that enables us to keep buying new items. What we should aim to do is reflect on our consumption as a whole.

Before adding anything to our home, we ought to ask ourselves a few questions:
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  • Do I really need this product?
  • If so, can I borrow it?
  • If not, can I buy it secondhand?
  • If not, what is the environmental impact of this new product?
  • Was it ethically made?
  • Is it made to last? / Will I get tired of it?
  • If so, how can it be repurposed or recycled?

What we choose to discard is our responsibility, so we should buy accordingly.

Surely, the Burrow is filled to the brim with interesting objects that have been purchased from magical secondhand shops, crafted from reused materials, and handed down through generations. The Burrow is the definition of charm and character when it comes to a home. Every worn plate, mismatched piece of furniture, and unique trinket has a story behind it.

The Weasley children have all shared and passed down clothing, toys, broomsticks, and even wands. Using items as long as possible is a wonderful way to save money, help the environment, and create a humble home where everyone learns to share.
We don’t always need the newest and fanciest gadgets to make us happy. Below, you’ll find a few suggestions on where to learn more about shopping sustainably and how to find your next, new-to-you items!

Helpful Resources


Books:
  • Fashionopolis by Dana Thomas​​

​Documentaries:
  • The True Cost  (fast fashion) 
  • The Clothes We Wear (“greenwashing” and more in the fashion industry) 
  • River Blue (water pollution caused by fashion)​
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Credit: Pottermore
Secondhand Marketplaces (various items):
  • Facebook Marketplace (Worldwide)
  • eBay (Worldwide)
  • Craigslist (Worldwide)
  • Gumtree (UK, Australia, and more)
  • Depop (UK)
  • Shpock (UK)
  • Poshmark (United States, Canada, and Australia)
  • Vinted (operates in nine countries, including the U.S. and the U.K)

Thrift Store (clothes):
  • ThredUP (United States and Canada)

Secondhand Booksellers:
  • World of Books  (Worldwide) 
  • Awesome Books  (Worldwide) 
  • Thrift Books (Worldwide)
  • Better World Books (Worldwide)


Don’t forget to join our Discord server to chat with other animal lovers and show us what you’ve purchased secondhand!


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Written by Assya Ahouandjinou, Ruby Shoefield, Valerie Short, and Victoria Tomis

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